Vintage espresso: An experimental venture

Καταγραφή

Ο πειραματισμός πάντα αποτελούσε για εμένα αναπόσπαστο κομμάτι της συνεχούς αναζήτησης νέων εξαιρετικών ευρημάτων στον κλάδο του καφέ. Μέσω του Direct Relationship Program, το οποίο έχω δημιουργήσει για την taf, έχω την ευκαιρία να επισκέπτομαι φάρμες και παραγωγούς ανά τον κόσμο και να εξερευνώ τις δυνατότητες του κάθε καφέ, δοκιμάζοντας διαφορετικές καμπύλες καβουρδίσματος και πραγματοποιώντας συνεχείς γευσιγνωσίες με στόχο την εύρεση του ιδανικού προφίλ.

_DSC5081 (1)_DSC3707 (1)Το 2014, αφού μόλις είχα λάβει τον θαυμάσιο natural Semeon Abay από την Αιθιοπία με τη μοναδική φόρμουλα επεξεργασίας της Ninety Plus, αποφάσισα να πειραματιστώ με την ιδέα της κατάψυξης μιας συγκεκριμένης ποσότητας, προκειμένου να δοκιμάσω την αντίσταση του καφέ στο πέρασμα του χρόνου, με άλλα λόγια να διαπιστώσω πόσο καιρό θα μπορούσε να παραμείνει ανέπαφος χωρίς συμπτώματα παλαιότερης καλλιέργειας.

Στο πείραμα συμμετείχαν και άλλοι τρεις καφέδες, αλλά κανένας δεν κατάφερε τον επόμενο χρόνο να διατηρήσει αναλλοίωτα τα αρωματικά και γευστικά χαρακτηριστικά του. Ο Semeon Abay, αφού τα κατάφερε επιτυχώς, μετά από αυτό το σημείο ελεγχόταν κάθε 6 μήνες. Όλα αυτά τα χρόνια παρακολουθούσα προσεκτικά την πορεία του και κάθε φορά με εξέπληττε η αναλλοίωτη γεύση του, καθώς κρατούσε όλα τα αρωματικά και γευστικά του χαρακτηριστικά.

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Τώρα, τέσσερα χρόνια μετά την κατάψυξη του, έχει έρθει η στιγμή να μοιραστώ μαζί σας αυτήν τη μοναδική γεύση που απέκτησε αυτός ο καφές καθ ‘όλη τη διάρκεια της ζωής του στον καταψύκτη, ξεπερνώντας κάθε προσδοκία. Ο Semeon Abay Vintage Espresso παρουσιάστηκε πρώτα στο κοινό του London Coffee Festival και, ύστερα, στο Athens Coffee Show, προσφέροντας μια μοναδική γευστική εμπειρία.


Experimentation has always been an integral part of my constant search for new extraordinary findings in the coffee industry. Through the Direct Relationship Program, that I have created for taf, I have the opportunity to visit farms and producers around the world and explore the potential of each coffee by trying different roasting curves and making constant tasting to find the ideal profile.

_DSC5081 (1)_DSC3707 (1)In 2014, once I received the wonderful natural Semeon Abay from Ethiopia with the unique formula of Ninety Plus, I decided to experiment with the idea of freezing a certain quantity to test the resistance of coffee over time, with other words to see how long it could stay intact without symptoms of older crop.

Three other coffees were involved in the experiment, but next year no one was able to maintain its aromatic and flavor characteristics. Semeon Abay, after that point and having succeded the initial test, was checked every 6 months. All these years I watched its course carefully and every time I was surprised by his unaltered taste, as it kept all its aromas and flavors.

IMG_5122 (3)Now, four years after its freezing, it’s time to share with you this unique taste that this coffee has acquired throughout its lifetime in the freezer, surpassing any expectation. Semeon Abay Vintage Espresso first appeared in the London Coffee Festival audience and then to the Athens Coffee Show, offering a unique tasting experience.

 

Waiting for the very first Sidra

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A few weeks ago I traveled to the Eastern Cordillera of the Andes, to taste the first harvest of Sidra coffee in one of my favorite farms, the sophisticated La Palma y el Tucan. I was their guest for two days in the beautifully located farm, staying in the wooden eco friendly cabins. The feeling of sleeping and waking up in such an environment, it is not easy to describe in words. Tranquility, sounds from the river Apulo passing through trees, unique sense.

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The fruits of Sidra grow on trees that reach up to 2.5 meters high just in the first three years, in a very specific microclimate with high humidity levels. Already on the farm the plant has adapted so well. The formation of the branches coming from the trunk resembles that of Geisha. We evaluated 6 picolots including Sidra, extremely small quantities of different varieties, Heroes and Legendary virieties, like the owners have named them, which make only 1% of production. Of these, I have chosen the Sidra and bought their entire production, a limited reserve lot for the project of Direct Relationship for Taf coffee, which is expected to arrive soon in the roastery in Athens. For the processing, they used a Lactic-Acid Fermentation, which resulted in a complex cup full with notes of cedar and red apple, so special.

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I feel so excited about this very first harvest, the moment of 2015 that someone will know how Sidra from La Palma y El Tucan, in Taf roasting tastes like.

The evening at the farm passed pleasantly, by drinking Argentinian Merlot, with strong tannins in the mouth and an exquisite rum Santa Teresa Gran Reserva from Venezuela, accompaniment of traditional music. All happened slowly and when even thinking of that two nights there, is enough to feel that you can lose yourself in the Cordillera.

You can watch the amazing  video that my friends – owners of the farm La Palma y El Tucan made for our collaboration here!
Enjoy!

Cup of Excellence, Colombia

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This year’s Cup of Excellence took place in city Neiva, south of Bogota, from 1- 5 of September. I landed there, departing from Bogota with Anviaca Air, it was enough to walk a few meters from airport tarmac to the baggage claim to feel the heat, like lava. Thankfully, Almacafe facilities, where all the cupping sessions were held, were excellent and fully air-conditioned!

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Cup of Excellence is one of the most prestigious coffee awards and is given to a special lot for its excellent quality.
Its purpose is to highlight outstanding coffees from special farms in their native countries.
Every single coffee awarded has been tested (on cupping) at least 5 times before winning.

 The procedure is fascinating but also hard, it needs a great deal of concentration to rate properly each coffee in the time given by the protocol. The aromas and taste characteristics change quickly, so total focus on every single cup is the key to be fair in evaluation. Knowledge and experience are taken for granted in order to be part of the international jury.

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 841 samples from the national Colombian produce were sent to be evaluated some week earlier. Only those that were rated with at least 84/100 after continuous evaluation passed to the next level. There are restrictions and a really strict protocol concerning the uniformity of the roasted beans, water temperature, the proportion of coffee and water such as the time of preparation. Only 59 samples passed to the semi- finals.

The international jury evaluated them with the minimum rate of 85/100. The samples that did not gather at least 85, won’t  participate in the auction, which will take place on 21st October 2014. Only 28 lots have made it finally.

Through this wonderful procedure I enjoyed more three lots, that I will try to overbid. Exotic taste profiles, they are very different from the usual character of Colombian coffee. You can find mint, eucalyptus, tropical fruits, molasses, black tea, malic acidity and really clear aftertaste, from what I can remember. I am going to wait for the samples and then I will organize an open cupping for the lovers of these unique coffees.